Stumbling Across Vibrant Arhus

The sun doesn’t shine much in the Nordics. This year was different though. Like elsewhere in Europe, the Nordic countries are also experiencing a heat wave. Lately though, the heat has relented to give way to milder sunny days. Just the kind that are ideal for taking a short road trip. And that’s what I ended up doing the last weekend.

With no premade plans — just like the way it should be for any road trip — I hopped into the car one fine Saturday morning and headed out. I didn’t know where the road will take me, except that I wanted to cross the Öresund Bridge, a partially underwater bridge that links Sweden to Denmark. It was a nice summer day, and encouraged by the weather, I rolled down the windows and propelled ahead, crossing Copenhagen to further ahead.

Now, I was on the road to Aarhus, the second biggest city of Denmark after Copenhagen. Many people outside Nordics may not have heard of this city, however, it was chosen as the European Capital of Culture in 2017. To reach Aarhus I had to drive across the Great Belt Bridge (referred to as Storebaelt here), which is a suspension bridge placed 65 meters above water and runs for 1.6 kilometres and offers calming, yet compelling views of the sea. Later I learnt that constructing this bridge was the biggest project ever taken by the Danish government. Driving on this bridge was worth the entire road trip thus far.

I had time and the sun was still shining, and I pressed ahead. That afternoon, I drove into Aarhus. Aarhus is a cultured, even slightly highbrow, college town that nestles in itself bubbly restaurants, cozy cafes, and cheerful bars serving excellent craft beer. It carries a college town atmosphere, for close to twenty percent of its population is made of students.

I decided to walk the pedestrian street, which was lined with shops selling artwork and cafes. The weekend crowd spilled over the street in a frenzy aided by the shining sun. Walking on the cobblestoned street brought me to the waterfront, which has recently undergone a substantial facelift and now houses the scholarly but futuristic public library. Danish architecture is world-renowned and what better epitome of it than this heptagonal structure designed by the Danish architecture firm Schmidt Hammer Lassen which has walls of glass running from floor to ceiling.

Walking around made me hungry and I searched for a place to eat. Aarhus has several world class restaurants such as F-Hoj serving traditional Danish rye bread called smorrebrod with a twist, and Haervaerk, which serves Nordic cuisine that evolves everyday based on what local produce the restaurant is able to get hold of. On a friend’s recommendation, I settled for a small restaurant called Latin that serves from a choice of only three main courses, again crafted from local produce. The restaurant, located in a street corner, opened its floor to ceiling windows as the cool breeze colonised the evening. I ate well there, relying solely on the recommendation of the chef who seemed to be in a good mood, and crafted something out of the menu for me.

Later that evening, as I walked back to search for a hotel to spend the night in, the pedestrian street had gathered more frenzy. By now, the restaurants on the street had turned into a drinking and dining destination. The sports bars were spilling with university students holding onto pitchers of local craft beer while enjoying football on large screens. As the evening melted into a cerulean darkness, I joined the restless crowd.

Next morning, I searched for a cup of coffee. A friend, Amalie, had suggested that I visit La Cabra that serves a variety of coffees and is known for its fruity light roast blend. While I walked to the cafe, the frenzy on the streets from last night had evaporated to be replaced with an equally welcomed calmness. La Cabra is a little boxy cafe that’s noticeable from a distance, for a line of caffeine-starved individuals stood outside it. I joined the crowd and waited for my turn. The morning was beginning to gather warmth and the day seem suitable to order an ice-latte. Holding my coffee glass, I settled on a stool next to the window overlooking the street.

As I sipped the coffee, I sat with the memories of the day that has passed by. I had come to this city without advance planning, and the adventure had not disappointed me. I had crossed bridges to reach here, studied Danish architecture, eaten well, and was now sipping an excellent coffee in this nice neighbourhood — all in a day’s play. Well, I guess that’s why spontaneous road trips are so cherished, for one never knows what adventure one may stumble into.